A Transcendent Experience in a Cloud Forest in Guatemala
Quetzal in the Trees
My husband and I just got back from a ten day trip to visit a friend in Guatemala. At the end of our trip, we went on a fabulous bird walk with Rolando, our guide from Atitlan Expeditions. Rolando studied at Cornell and was trained by Audubon and is bird whisperer. Before we went, I’d purchased a small painting of a quetzal from a painter in Santiago Atitlan, because I’d fallen in love with the appearance of this brightly colored bird with its long tail feathers. After I purchased the painting, I wondered if I would see one, and if it was premature to buy a souvenir of something I had not yet encountered. Fortunately, our experience with Rolando did not disappoint. We saw six quetzals during our hike in the Municipal Ecological Park once named Mirador Rey Tepepul, since according to lore the Mayan King Tepepul dwelled here. One of the birds we saw kept flying from the trees to its nest in an open area and back to the trees. The name quetzal comes from the Aztec word ‘quetzalli,’ meaning precious or beautiful and they are both stunning and endangered.
The holes in the dead tree are the entrances to the quetzals nest. Their faces are so adorable that they almost look like stuffed animals. But these birds are more than cute, they are the national bird of Guatemala and a symbol of freedom, since they are so difficult to catch. Local legend has it that these birds would rather die of hunger than be kept in captivity. Given the current struggles around the world and especially in the United States, I really felt an affinity towards these gorgeous creatures and watching them soar hundreds of feet above the ground filled me with awe. Associated with the snake god Quetzalcoatl, the Aztecs and Mayans considered this bird to be the “god of air” and a symbol of goodness and light. Again, qualities that would be great to call in at this moment in history. They mate for life and only in the spring, when the males grow these resplendent feathers. They only nest in dead trees that have been hollowed out by previous birds or which they hollow out themselves. Deforestation is reducing their habitat and the only way to save them is to save the forests where they live. Remnants of cloud forests still remain near Lake Atitlan and the moment we stepped into this protected area I felt it was magical.
Resplendent Male Quetzal with Long Tail Feathers
The quetzal also symbolizes great wealth to the Mayan people. The tail feathers were once used in head dresses and traded as currency. However, the birds were not killed and were released after the feathers were plucked. These feathers eventually grow back, but losing them makes attracting a mate more difficult. Due to their long association with prosperity, the currency in Guatemala is also named after these birds. In ancient civilizations it was believed that these birds were divine messengers. When we returned to Bambu, the hotel where we were staying, I showed the staff some photos of the quetzal and a video Rolando took of a quetzal taking off that he made with the iPhone attached to his telescope. I also related how one flew right between where the guide and I were standing and my husband. They told me I must have great energy for so many quetzals to choose to present themselves to me. I’m not sure if that is true, but I do know I was immediately enamored and tapped into the regenerative energy of the cloud forest and my husband was too. And of course the forest was home to Rolando.
Quetzal in Its Natural Habitat
Above is one more photo of this incredible bird in the cloud forest trees. It is called a cloud forest, since thick clouds frequently roll in during the afternoon. The humidity precipitates onto the leaves and creates a very lush environment, but it can also obscure the birds from sight. We went early in the morning, before the clouds.
Over 300 species of birds are found in Mirador Rey Tepepul. We saw several Highland Guan, birds they prefer to live in forests 2,600 to 9,850 in altitude. This bird is considered vulnerable due to increasing habitat loss. They are also quite shy, which makes them difficult to spot, although their red wattles do call attention to themselves.
Emerald Toucanet in a Tree in the Cloud Forest
The emerald green toucanet is native to Central America and smaller than the toucans we are used to seeing. They are only 10-14 inches long and live for approximately 20 years. We hiked half a mile further up a small trail to an area where Rolando knew they were nesting and we lucky to see several flying between the trees where they camouflaged themselves and their nests.
Bird with black tail feathers and white spots in the treetops
The bird above I have not yet been able to identify. Its head was brown with a white chest and it has black tail feathers with white spots. It was way up in the treetops near where I photographed the toucan. If anyone knows what this bird is called, please let me know.
Motmot on a Tree Branch
Rolando was very impressed that we got to see a Motmot bird. He said they are incredibly shy. Motmots are monogamous and some species mate for life. These small birds looked very sweet. There long feathers are wagged as a warning when predators approach, and like the quetzal also serve to attract females during mating season. It was wonderful to be able to watch them fly around and land again in trees nearby.
Yellow Grosbeak in the Trees
The yellow grosbeak is a permanent resident of most areas where it is found. There overall population is decreasing, but they are still relatively widespread. We were fortunately to see many of these birds during our hike.
The Green Lushness of the Cloud Forest
Even if you are not a birder, I highly recommend a walk in the cloud forests of Guatemala. They are so green and lush and walking along the trails filled me with a sense of life going on about the business of living, as William Least Heat-Moon described a swamp in Louisiana. Sadly, although 30 percent of Guatemala is still forested, only two percent of these remaining forests are cloud forests (https://cloudforestconservation.org/knowledge/cloud-forest/#:~:text=Although%20some%2030%25%20of%20Guatemala,of%20Guatemala%20is%20cloud%20forest.). Biodiversity is very high in cloud forests, and they serve as living aquifers for Guatemala. All the vegetation also helps improve air quality and the air here was the cleanest here of anywhere we went in the country. The air quality in the country is considered moderately unsafe. Particulate matter is 3.7 times the World Health Organizations recommended guidelines. The air pollution is caused by vehicle emissions, fossil fuels, landfill fires, and the metals and chemicals industries. Life expectancy for the people who live here is reduced by 2.4 years due to particulates, but the country does not yet have a national standard for emissions. The problem is exacerbated by volcanic ash and fumes from active volcanoes. While we were there, Fuego also erupted. Yet, in the cloud forests we were able to breathe a lot better, which is another reason why they should be preserved.