The Magnificent Old Growth Forests of Bella Coola

The Forest’s Web of Life, Bella Coola

Though I went to British Columbia to photograph grizzly bears, it was the forest I was most enamored with. Don’t get me wrong, communing with grizzly bears was a once in a lifetime experience, but I have never walked in forests such as these and it was magical. The images I made are going to make spectacular platinum-palladium prints as soon as my darkroom is up and running. The plants in the foreground are Devil’s Club. They have spikes that are laden with toxins, but the grizzly bears like to eat the berries and their fur appears thick enough that the spikes and toxins don’t affect them. The thick vegetation and biodiversity made this area a magical wonderland.

Ground Cover Galaxy, Bella Coola

This is my favorite image from the trip. In North Carolina, there are so many invasive species and the forest floor is often covered with thorny plants and gnarly clumps of intimidating vegetation. In Bella Coola, when I looked at the forest floor, I saw so many beautiful, intricate plants that seemed to be stars in a natural galaxy. In the old growth areas, I was overwhelmed with the sense that life was going on about the business of living without the interference of the hand of man. The longer I walked in the forest, the more careful I was with my feet. I did not want to destroy such beauty and opted for paths that I could see had been trod upon.

Ancient Cedar Tree, Bella Coola

The ancient cedar trees in Bella Coola are phenomenal. This one was located right by the airport. The ancient cedars in Bella Coola are between 600 and 1,000 years old. It is amazing to be in the presence of trees that have lived through so many centuries. The trees have created obstacles for planes approaching the airport though, and some of them were removed in 2017 to keep the airport open. The First Nations people agreed they needed to be able to fly in and out of Bella Coola, and the trees were repurposed for a variety of uses and members of the Nuxalk First Nation came and stripped the bark from suitable cedars to be used for cultural purposes. Fortunately this one was left.

Giant Cedar Trunk

The tree was towering and it felt as though its outstretched arms encompassed an entire universe. The branches and twigs and offshoots created the most intricate natural system I have ever been honored to see. I wish there had been even more areas of truly old growth forest. In Bella Coola, as in so many places around the world, logging has displaced many ancient trees. The Nuxalk First Nation joined with the logging industry n the 1920’s, but they came into conflict with International Forest Products in the 1990s due to the company’s increased reliance on machinery. The trend today is towards ecosystem-based management, but unfortunately many of the old growth forests were targeted first. Between 1860 and 2016, 87 percent of logging took place in old growth forests and that started happening in 1970 according to a paper published in the peer-reviewed journal Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. These old growth forests are the most profitable for the logging industry. Though there are efforts to protect them now, sadly climate change and forest fires continue to threaten them. When we arrived in BC, there was a lot of smoke from fires nearby. It is a constant and increasing threat.

Trees Growing on a Granite Boulder

This boulder was at the entrance to the Petroglyph site in Bella Coola, which was perhaps the best experience I had there. The Nuxalk territory is home to ancient rock carvings estimated to be between 5,000 and 10,000 years old and where they are situated is a highly spiritual place. For years, people were not allowed to come here, even people of the Nuxalk nation. It is a bit controversial that visitors are allowed there now, but the First Nations People want to share their story. Immediately upon walking into this area, I felt a very special energy. I was grateful to be allowed to visit and for the permission I was given to make a few images.

Plant Above the Petroglyphs

This photograph was taken above where the petroglyphs were located. Everywhere was lush and full of life and there were fungi everywhere.

Petroglyphs, Bella Coola

We were asked to take wide angle photographs of the petroglyphs instead of close-ups, due to their spiritual significance. Our aboriginal guide told us that he believed that the site was used by chiefs, mask dancers, doctors and elders. He told us many stories including how the Raven stole the sun for the people on earth and other legends. It was fascinating and I felt the sacred power of this site. Indigenous people always choose the location of their sacred sites and totem poles wisely.

Wishing Well Falls

On our way back to the Tweedsmuir Lodge, we stopped at the Wishing Well Falls, a beautiful waterfall near some more massive tree roots. The rocks the water cascades down are polished and beautiful and all the smaller rocks at the bottom appear like gems. It constantly amazed me that a few feet off the road in any direction, a magical world opened up. I will share more photos and write more posts from this incredible journey and I know I will be back sometime, hopefully to spend an entire summer. Never have I felt the desire to go so deeply into a place and learn more of its ancient history and flora and fauna. There are so few places like this left on the planet.